According to statistics, every second homeowner built his home on his own. According to their reviews, self-construction of the roof is one of the most difficult stages for lay builders. Therefore, it is very important to approach this stage, having in mind a complete picture of all the nuances of the process. To understand how to make a roof with your own hands, you need to study the device, the installation technology, the procedure for work and the features of fastening all the components of the structure.
Types of roofs
First you need to decide on the form. To date, the most popular types are:
- single slope;
- gable;
- four-sloped hip;
- broken line;
- multi-forceps.
Overlapping the roof with one single slope will save nerves and materials, because structurally this is the easiest option. If you make such a frame yourself, then the complexity of the work will be the smallest, and the installation speed is high. But this form has a drawback - there is no possibility of arranging a full-fledged attic or attic, since the under-roof space is too low.
The gable roof is mounted much more often. It is a little more difficult to manufacture, but allows you to get more space. Compared with the four-slope, it has less complexity and mass, however, it will be necessary to make triangular pediments at the ends of the building.
Before you start the self-construction of a roof with four slopes, you will need to seriously prepare. Such a system has more elements than the previous two. In addition, in the attic there is no way to make full-fledged windows, since the roof structure is devoid of pediments and the installation of complex dormer or dormer windows cannot be avoided.
For the attic an excellent option would be a combined design with broken ramps. In this case, in the lower part of the roof has a greater slope than in the upper section. Such an assembly allows you to raise the ceiling in the room and make the built house more comfortable.
Calculation
Before starting work, you need to make a design calculation. It makes no sense to calculate the cross sections of all elements. In most cases, they can be taken constructively:
- Mauerlat - 150x150 mm;
- racks - 100x150 or 100x100 mm, depending on the cross section of the rafters;
- struts - 100x150 or 50x150 mm, taking into account the convenience of connecting with rafters;
- puffs - 50x150 mm on both sides;
- runs - 100x150 or 150x50 mm;
- overlays from 32 to 50 mm thick.
Calculation is usually performed only for rafters and legs. It is required to choose the height and width of the section. Parameters depend on:
- roofing material;
- snow area;
- rafter steps (selected so that it is convenient to lay the insulation, for mineral wool between the elements in the light should remain 58 cm);
- span.
You can choose the cross section of the rafters using general recommendations. But in this case, it is recommended to make a small margin.
If you do not want to delve into the intricacies of calculations, you can use special calculators.
If you intend to make a warm roof, then the height of the section of the legs is selected taking into account the thickness of the insulation. It must be mounted so that it does not protrude above the supporting beams. It should also be noted that for mineral wool a ventilation gap of 2-4 cm is made between it and the coating. If the height of the rafters is not enough for this, the installation of a counter-lattice (counter-rack) is provided.
Step-by-step instructions for completing work
The sequence of stages of the construction of the roof is as follows:
- taking measurements of the building’s box (dimensions may slightly not correspond to the design);
- preparation of materials and tools, wood processing with an antiseptic;
- Mauerlat mount to the wall;
- installation of a ridge crossbar if it is necessary (for rafters);
- installation of the frame;
- Strengthening the roof with racks, struts and puffs;
- waterproofing;
- crate;
- provision of ventilation;
- installation of droppers;
- installation of the coating.
Mauerlate binding
In order for the roof to be securely fixed, you need to take care of its reliable connection with the wall of the building. If a wooden house is being built, then Mauerlat will not be required - the upper crown of timber or logs acts as this element. In this case, fastening to the wall is performed using special “floating” fasteners. They are sold ready-made, most often they are called sleds. This option of the roof device allows the entire structure to slightly shift when the walls shrink without damage and deformation.
A similar situation arises with the frame house. In this case, the upper wall trim will be the Mauerlat. It is attached to the racks of the frame with gash with the help of corners, brackets or nails.
The roof structure made of brick, concrete blocks or concrete involves fastening through the Mauerlat. In this case, there are several ways.
There are four ways to put a Mauerlat on a wall:
- on staples;
- on hairpins;
- on anchor bolts.
Mauerlat can be mounted on staples. In this case, wooden blocks are laid in the masonry from the inside. They should be located at a distance of 4 rows from the edge. One side of the bracket is attached to the Mauerlat, and the second to the same bar in the masonry. The method can also be attributed to simple. It is not recommended for large buildings with high loads.
Do-it-yourself fastening during roof mounting can be done through studs or anchor bolts with a diameter of 10-12 mm. Fasteners are laid in the masonry. Mauerlat is temporarily laid on a sawn-off shot, it is necessary to lightly tap it with a hammer. After that, recesses remain in the fasteners on the timber. On them you need to make holes for the studs. After this, the beam is put on the fasteners and the nuts are tightened. The method is ideally suited for light concrete walls in the presence of a monolithic armopoyas.
Fixing rafters to Mauerlat
In houses made of brick or stone, it is more reasonable to perform with the help of a rigid fastening of the rafters to the Mauerlat. In this case, you can use both a layered and a hanging system. The design involves two methods:
- with a notch;
- without cutting.
In the first case, the rafters are cut with a slope so that they tightly adjoin the Mauerlat. To remove the cornice provide for filly. They are attached to the leg with an overlap of at least 1 m. Rigid fixation of the knot should be done using self-tapping screws, nails or staples. But the assembled frame will have greater reliability if metal corners with holes for self-tapping screws are used for fixation.
The no-cut method often does not involve the use of filly. In this case, the beam is secured by the beams themselves. This option is simpler than the previous one, because it does not require high accuracy. It is suitable for beginners. For a snug fit to the Mauerlat, in this case, persistent bars or boards are used. Rigid fixation, as in the previous case, is performed by metal corners on both sides.
Fixing rafters to the wall
The made frame needs to be fixed to the box of the building - this will not allow a strong gust of wind to tear off the roof. For this, it is usually necessary to use twisting from two wires with a diameter of 4 mm. They are wrapped around the leg at the point of support on the Mauerlat, and after the wire is attached to the wall on an anchor or ruff about 4-5 rows before the edge. The element must be laid in advance in the masonry.
For a wooden house, you can simplify the task. You can assemble the frame using brackets. This option will speed up the process. But it is important to remember that this method is only suitable if the manufacture of walls is made of wood.
System gain
How to strengthen the frame when flying more than 6 meters? It is necessary to reduce the free span of the rafters. To do this, use struts and racks. Strengthening is necessary taking into account the layout, it is important that these elements do not interfere with the stay of people and blend harmoniously into the interior.
Braces are usually placed at an angle of 45 or 60 degrees to the horizontal plane. Racks cannot be relied on to span a ceiling. They can be installed on underlying walls or beams and trusses thrown between the walls.
Tightening is necessary to reduce thrust. Because of him, the rafters can just leave. This is especially true for systems with hanging beams. To assemble the frame, use two puffs that are attached on both sides of the rafters. Fixation is carried out on self-tapping screws, nails or hairpins.
Run Connection
At the top of the rafters rely on an intermediate or ridge run. Depending on the selected system, location and span, it is made of timber with a section from 50x100 to 100x200 mm. Fastening is carried out on connecting metal plates, bolts or nails.
Crate
Before starting work at this stage, it is required to install waterproofing material. Builders recommend the use of a vapor diffusion moisture and windproof membrane. It costs more than a plastic film, but guarantees more reliable protection. Your home is not a reason to save.
The roof requires fixing the lathing. The type depends on the selected roofing material. For metal, a rarefied battens of boards 32–40 mm thick will suffice. Under a bituminous tile the continuous lathing from a board of 25–32 mm or moisture resistant plywood is necessary.
Roof ventilation
Before proceeding to the stage of laying the roof, it is worth considering ventilation of the subroofing space. This will protect the structure from mold, fungus and destruction.
For ventilation, it is necessary to provide:
- air intake through the cornice (the filing of the cornice is made with a sparse board or special perforated soffits);
- the movement of air under the coating (between the insulation and the roof there should be a gap of 2-3 cm);
- air outlet in the area of the ridge (for this, a ridge and / or point aerator is installed on the roof).
Roofing
The type of roof is selected for aesthetic and economic reasons. It is also worth exploring the proposals of manufacturers and finding out the allowable bias. For example, shingles are not recommended to be laid with a slope of more than 45 °.
The installed material must provide reliable waterproofing. Its installation is carried out in strict accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. There are five most common types of coverage:
- rebate roof;
- metal tile;
- corrugated board;
- ondulin;
- flexible tile.
Warming
Thermal insulation can be performed only after installation of the coating and waterproofing. Mineral wool is most often used for insulation. It is held between the rafters due to friction against the beams and due to the lower crate. The thickness of the insulation is selected by calculation, depending on the climatic region, an average of 150-200 mm. Read more about roof insulation.