Is the washing machine overheating? For colored linen, woolen, cotton things this can be a disaster: they molt and sit down. Each washing program provides a specific temperature: 30, 40, 60 degrees. Delicate items should be washed in the most gentle mode - no more than 40 ° С.
Why the machine overheats and how to fix the failure, read our article.
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Symptoms and causes of the problem
If the washing machine constantly warms or boils water, the parts are worn out. How to notice this:
- With a slight overheating (at 10-20 ° C) things can shed, sit down even in 30-degree mode.
- When boiling, you may notice that steam is coming from the door. The walls of the machine will be hot.
What to do. Before looking for the cause of the problem, interrupt the washing program, unplug the appliance from the network. Try to start the drain mode: if the water is very hot, it is better to wait a few hours until it cools down. Boiling water can damage the hoses and nozzles of the SMA.
If the drain does not start, wait for cooling and run it through the drain filter.
When the tank is unloaded, you can begin to diagnose. For this, it is important to understand the principle of heating in a Bosch, Siemens, Electrolux and other brands washing machine.
How water is heated in the AGR
As soon as the tank is full, the machine starts heating:
- The control board gives a signal to the heating element about the start of work.
- As soon as the temperature reaches the set level, the thermistor informs the module about it.
- The control element instructs the heating element to stop working.
If one of the three parts breaks down or if their operation fails, the washer begins to boil water. An additional reason may be blown wiring.
How to fix the problem
You will need diagnostic tools, tools: a screwdriver, pliers.
Start by checking the thermistor and heater. In washing machines, a temperature sensor is built into the base of the heater, so you need to get to it.
Depending on the model of the washer, the heater can be located in the front or rear of the housing, under the tank. You can find out exactly in the instruction manual.
If your car has a heater in front, you have to completely disassemble the case, but this is rare. We will consider the option that is most common: placing the heater near the back wall.
- Close the shut-off valve.
- Disconnect the drain and inlet hoses from the body.
- Remove the two screws on the top cover. Slide it forward, and then remove it from the chassis.
- Unscrew the bolts around the perimeter of the back cover, set it aside.
- Under the tank you will see the conclusions of the heater.
If you decide to pull out the part, buy a rubber seal. It allows the heater to sit tightly in the socket, and after dismantling it is damaged and does not fulfill its functions.
- Disconnect the wiring chips, inspect the wires for damage. If the insulation is broken or burnt parts are visible, the operation of the element is not controlled by the board. The wiring cable must be replaced.
- To test, attach the multimeter probes to the contacts, measure the resistance. If the indicators are more than 20 OM, the device is operational, 0 is an internal circuit, 1 or infinity is an open.
- To diagnose a thermistor, connect the probes of the multimeter and measure the resistance with a temperature difference. At 20 degrees, the resistance should be about 6000 ohms. When immersed in hot water about 50 ° - 1350 Ohms.
- To replace defective elements, unscrew the central nut of the heater (not completely) and press it inward.
- Remove the heater from the seat, pull out the thermistor.
- Install in the reverse order.
The most difficult malfunction could happen with the electronic module. If he does not give TEN a command to turn off, then the water will boil. Incorrect interpretation of the temperature sensor data leads to a temperature increase of 10-30 degrees.
In this case, you need a flashing of the module or its complete replacement. Repair is best entrusted to a specialist. You can only inspect the part for damage yourself:
- Disconnect the equipment from the network.
- Remove the top cover by unscrewing the two screws on the back.
- Loosen the screws and remove the partition, if any.
- Pull out the dispensing tray by pressing the lock in the center.
- Unscrew the two self-tapping screws located behind it.
- Remove the bolts that secure the control panel.
- Having opened latches, remove the panel together with the block from the case.
- Disconnect the wiring chips, inspect the module for damage.
If you want to check the board, remove the module cover. Look for burns. If you notice a problem, take the part to a service center or contact the wizard.
So you can independently check the elements of the AGR. Watch a useful repair video: